Chef Alex Dilling’s love for caviar was manifested in his first dish in a specially curated menu at Sabayon in EQ Kuala Lumpur. Here was Aged Kaluga Caviar, a luxurious blanket of it atop smoked Scottish salmon rillette, crème cru, and Dilling’s gold leaf signature. It was served with the lightest muffin and the finest cucumber pickles.
Aged Kaluga Caviar, Smoked Scottish Salmon Rilette, creme crus, dill
My teaspoon sliced through the caviar, touched the cream layer and into the smoked salmon beneath. Paired with the muffin and cucumber pickle, it was perfection — delicate and harmonious. Chef Dilling comes from his two Michelin-star restaurant, Hotel Café Royal, London, for a showcase at Sabayon, EQ Kuala Lumpur, from now till June 15.
The chef loves caviar, not as an expensive garnish, but for its mouthfeel and taste. And Kaluga, often known as river Beluga, from the Amur River Basin in China, is his favourite.
Wild Mushroom Macaroni Gratin
His Wild Mushroom Macaroni Gratin, 36-month parmesan, black truffle, vin jaune (yellow wine) was swoon-worthy. It was the most flavoursome macaroni I’ve had. There were bites of mushrooms within, the aroma of parmesan and its salty tang, the black truffle, and lasty the wine emulsion came together in a happy marriage.
Olive Oil-Poached Black Cod with smoked eel consomme
The Olive Oil-Poached Black Cod stood out in the shiny fillet, crowned with black pearls of caviar and tiny cubes of marinated turnip. Smoked eel consommé was poured around it. While the complex, smoky flavour of the consommé complemented the lovely cod, I found it a trifle salty.
Hunter Chicken is the chef’s signature dish, his refined take on Chicken Cacciatore, a classic Italian dish. “Cacciatore” comes from the Italian word for hunter, believed to have originated with Italian hunters preparing chicken over an open fire with whatever ingredients they have on hand.
Hunter Chicken, corn-fed, with Albufera sauce
Hunter Chicken
Dilling’s famed Hunter Chicken is covered with a thin, stripey layer of blended chicken mousse, and another of mushroom duxelle, almost like a beef wellington, then finished with sauce Albufera. It’s an intensely flavoured, dark rich meat sauce that delivers the winning touch to the chicken. Hunter Chicken was served with a delightful pomme puree and salad with a lemony dressing.
Tainori Chocolate, sourdough ice cream, salted caramel, Pedro Ximenes sabayon
We were blown away by the dessert – Tainori Chocolate, sourdough ice cream, salted caramel, Pedro Ximenes sabayon. I loved the ice cream, the burst of salt in the salted caramel, the bitter chocolate and the jelly on it.
Chef Dilling has spent time with Alain Ducasse in New York and Helene Darroze at The Connaught in London. His restaurant Alex Dilling at Café Royal, where he presents gastronomic French cuisine in an intimate setting, was awarded two stars within seven months of its opening in 2023.
The London-born Dilling has always wanted to do things in the kitchen since he was 15 and found a passion for French cuisine. Roast chicken, Mexican food and cheese make him happy and dislikes beetroot and hard-boiled eggs!
EQ x Alex Dilling is priced at RM1,200+ per head for dinner at Sabayon, with a vegetarian menu priced at RM850+. For reservations WhatsApp +60122789239 or email dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com.
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