The Signature Dimsum Trilogy showcased some of the bold flavours that are being introduced in the new menu at Yun House at Four Seasons. First the Fish Maw Dumpling with cordyceps flower in a bamboo charcoal skin, topped with a thick slice of fish maw, touched with black garlic, made for smooth, springy and tasty bites.
From left, Deepfried Yam Puff with Roasted BBQ Duck, Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic, Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster
I was drawn to the pink Deepfried Yam Puff with Barbecued Duck. I loved the texture, from the crispy outside into the creamy joy of yam unfolding within it the moist filling of barbecued duck.
The Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster was yet another venture into new flavours and textures. The dimsum was deepfried, wrapped in vermicelli, and I sank into the crunchy meat and prawn, tasting the foie gras and Shajing oyster. It sat on a creamy, citrusy sauce, scented with ginger lily.
Prawn Toast with Caviar. Mini Beef Steak with Black Vinegar Sauce
Prawn Toast with Caviar and Mini Beef Steak with Black Vinegar seemed an odd couple on the dish. But they can be ordered separately, The crispy prawn toast delivers springy chopped prawns within, with its crispy skin dusted with salted egg yolk.
The mini beef steak was not all that mini. The meat was absolutely tender, infused with the peppery tones of the vinegar sauce which complemented it well, giving a tart balance to its richness.
Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops, Tofu and Crispy Wonton with Alaskan Crabmeat
Hot and sour soup with sea scallops, tofu and crispy Alaskan crabmeat wonton had the right tartness and chilli pepper heat. Strips of bamboo shoot, wood fungus and omelette and sweet scallops made this a meal in itself, not forgetting the big fried wonton filled with Alaskan crab.
Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli
Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli stood out for its lush, creamy and sweet flesh which gelled perfectly with the chilli in a saltish, a little tart sauce. It cut the richness of the fish.
Braised HK E-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Black Truffle Paste
Braised HK E Fu noodles with wild mushrooms and black truffle paste was flavourful. I liked the texture of the noodles which were lightly touched by the truffle paste in the sauce, and tasted even better with the mushrooms in it.
Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk
Dessert was Yin Yang black sesame ice cream with chilled almond milk. There were crunchy toasted nuts beneath the ice cream and I absolutely loved the almond milk it was sitting on, and I could slurp up at the end of it.
A variety of snowskin mooncakes from Yun House
As Mooncake Festival is on September 17, we had a tasting of snowskin mooncakes by Yun House. They were Musang King Durian, Black Truffle Lotus Seed Paste with Pine Nuts and Honey Kelutut, Bird’s Nest with Black Sesame and Almond, and White Lotus Seed Paste with Seaweed, Black Sugar and Macadamia Nuts.
The Musang King Durian had the most delicate snowskin, with lightly sweet aromatic durian paste within. I would list it among the best durian mooncakes I have had.
Four varieties of snoskin mooncakes from Yun House
The White Lotus Seed Paste with Seaweed, black Sugar and Macadamia Nuts was both sweet and a little savoury because of the seaweed, while the Bird’s Nest with Black Sesame was rather generous with the bird’s nest.
Of course there are the baked varieties of Lotus Seed Paste with Single Yolk, Pandan Lotus Seed Paste with Yolk, Red Bean Paste with Almond Flakes and Traditional Mixed Nuts.
The Michelin Select Yun House is at Four Seasons Hotel. 145 Jalan Ampang, tel: 03 2382 8640.