Unlike in Penang a good Nyonya restaurant has been hard to find in KL. So were we delighted to hear about Lama Restaurant, and also its familial connection to a Nyonya friend of mine who’s an excellent cook.
Ju Hu Char, well braised and generous with cuttlefish
We arrived there one night at a building that looked like a Nyonya house, painted in orange with a picturesque entrance. Antique cupboards, marble-topped tables, Nyonya baskets emote the vibes of yesteryear.
We left it to the owner to organise our dinner, and she came back with Ju Hu Char, Sambal Kantan Ikan Bilis, Ayam Kapitan Curry, Asam Pedas Fish, Chicken Five Spice Lobak, Beef Rendang, Kerabu Paku and two desserts.
Ju Hu Char here was naturally sweet with shredded jicama dried cuttlefish strips, carrot and mushrooms. There was enough dried cuttlefish in it for the aroma and flavour and the sambal belacan was good. I made wraps with the lettuce, sambal and ju hu char and they were excellent.
Sambal Kantan Ikan Bilis
I’ve not encountered Sambal Kantan Ikan Bilis anywhere, and I liked it for the crispy ikan bilis tossed in a sambal with strips of fragrant bunga kantan. It was gently spicy and so addictive eaten on its own or with rice.
Ayam Kapitan
The Ayam Kapitan Curry here was done right – the curry had a welcome tinge of sourness from lime juice added, a nice balance to the richness of the curry.
Fish Asam Pedas — hot and tangy
The Asam Pedas Fish with ikan jenahak was how I expected it to be – sour and hot, aromatic with bunga kantan and other herbs.
The Beef Rendang was delicious, the slow-cooked meat in the melange of spices and santan. The Kerabu Paku turned out well too. Chicken Five Spice Lobak made for some great snacking before our main meal.
Beef Rendang
Chicken Five Spices Lobak
We loved the Bubur Cha Cha that had those sticky, colourful tapioca bits with bite, yam, purple and orange sweet potato in a rich coconut broth. The Sago Pudding was one of the best I’ve had in a long while – sago pearls with the right texture, lovely gula melaka and santan with the expected tinge of saltiness.
Bubur Cha Cha — with all the goodies
Sago Gula Melaka
Overall there was a homely and nostalgic touch about the Nyonya food at Lama. It’s the best Nyonya restaurant I’ve been this year and I’m raring to go back again.
Lama Restaurant is pork-free. It’s at 257 Jalan Ayer Jerneh, Taman Ayer Panas, Setapak, Kuala Lumpur, tel: 017 534 2223.