The wines of Chateau La Fleur-Petrus from Pomerol, Bordeaux, and Dominus Estate in Napa Valley paired exceedingly well with the fine cuisine of Yun House at Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur recently.
“Wine is the most magnificent beverage in the world as it makes people thirsty,” said winemaker Edouard Moueix as the double decanted Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2009 was poured. He asserted that “wine is an agricultural product. I’m a farmer, not an artist but I can accept artisan. The whole process of wine making is totally natural.”
Edouard’s grandfather, Jean-Pierre Moueix, acquired Chateau La Fleur-Petrus on the northern part of the plateau of Pomerol in 1950. His father Christian added to the property in the centre while Edouard in 2012 expanded it with several strategic acres on the south-western part. “It’s the land of Merlot. The vines grow; we put them in poor soil and under stress and they stop growing. They concentrate their energy in the grapes in a survival mode, and give us the best.
“The vineyard produces delicate wines, soft with no edges, soft tannins instead of drying up your palate. 2009 was a great vintage. The weather was perfect. From day one you could drink it. It was amazing four years ago. You will be drinking it extremely well even in 20 years. You have complexity, truffle chocolate and balance.” Indeed it was, silky and elegant.
Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2009 shared equal spotlight with the Jiang Nan Combination Platter of Deepfried Mantis Prawn and Five Spiced Brined Beef Shank.
Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2000 was another great vintage. “The 2000 gets better and better; it’s so easy to like. When we produce the wine, we look for that level of balance. We want the wine to accompany our food , not impose and punch you in the face. But there’s a wow factor and you finish the meal. One of the things I love in South East Asia is that you have the art of the table. You share food and wine.
“We try to produce wines that are seamless. It’s so much nicer to drink the bottle and not think about it nor try to dissect the vintage.” To Edouard aging is a bad term. “We raise, educate a child, polish him and allow him to express his quality overall education.”
The Beijing Duck Pancake with Caviar was a worthy match for the Chateau La Fleur-Petrus 2000. The crispy, juicy duck had layers of flavours which exploded on the palate.
Edouard’s father, Christian Mouiex studied viticulture and oenology at University of California at Davis from1968-69. He fell in love with the great wines of Napa.
“In the 20th century Napa hosted Robert Mondavi, a visionary who believed in the potential of Napa Valley which was the Wild, Wild West then. There was nobody there, no cars, not like now. Robert started there in the late 70s. He knew my father and in 1982 started a joint venture in Napanook. The first vintage was in 1983. My father became the sole owner of the Dominus vineyard in 1995.”
Napanook is another estate Bordeaux blend ( created in 1996), which is more approachable in its youth. So we tasted the Napanook by Dominus Estate 2012, a Bordeaux blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a smooth, complex and pleasing wine, served with Braised African Abalone in Rich Brown Sauce with Japanese Sea Cucumber.
“Napanook has produced a more approachable wine, the Dominus. There’s equilibrium in the wine, showing the best way to express the sense of terroir. Dominus and Napanook are managed in the same way as Chateau La Fleur-Petrus in Bordeaux. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates in Napa, with its hot days and cool nights.”
Dominus by Dominus Estate 2010 is aromatic and has complexity. Deepfried Boston Lobster Roll with Foie Gras in Sweet and Sour Sauce, and Pan Seared Japanese Kyushu Beef with Chef’s Special Sauce were such a delicious pairing with this wine.
Dominus by Dominus Estate 2001 was poured for the next course — Seafood Fried Rice with Pipa Duck. The duck was so good: tender, juicy and fine.
All the Napa wines were double decanted too. “I like 2010 more,” said Edouard. “It’s approachable and has much better balance. It’s opulent and in your face. Two-thirds of the wines we produce in Napa Valley can be drunk in their youth and yet has aging potential. The 2001 has gained complexity, with dark chocolate, tobacco.” I liked the 2001; I also loved the flavourful fried rice with the Pipa Duck.
Dessert was Sweetened Black Glutinous Rice in Whole Young Coconut and the exquisite Baked Bird’s Nest Egg Tart.
The amazing dinner was by Yun House Executive Chef Jimmy Wong who rightly took a bow at the end of it. The wines are distributed by Bordeaux Liquid Gold, www.bordeauxliquidgold.com.